Threads: Can be done with 3 threads with either needle, or 4 if you want a really strong gather
Stitch Length: 4-5 or as high as possible
Differential Feed: 2 or as high as possible.
Knife: Usually engaged but can be disengaged if needed
|My thread length dial at the front on 5 and differential feed at the back on 2|
When to Use:
Any item that you want to overedge and give a strong gather to at the same time. Especially useful for long straight seams such as gathered skirt waistband and any sort of frill on a dress or cushion.
In the right situation this trims, overedges, keeps your gathering stitch away from the stitching line and gives a much smoother, easier to manage gather
This technique does 2 very important things.
- It shows in a very practical way just what a differential feed does. Yep, this is entire purpose of a high differential feed, to gather the fabric up. Knowing this tecnhique will help you understand how to adjust your differential feed to get a perfect tension when sewing those pesky jersey fabrics
- The other thing this tecnhique does it help to understand the difference between a needle and a looper thread. This shows you that the needle threads on your overlocker really aren't all that different than the needle threads on your sewing machine
|The fabric is starting to gather on its own already|
Separate your needle thread/s (Mine are the green and yellow ones) at the start of the seam.
|My big fingers find this easier with the help of a needle or pin.|
Pull on the needle thread/s as you would a normal sewing machine thread to gather the fabric to the required amount
That's it. Done. Wasn't that easy!!!!
Real World Example:
Here's a pink skirt that I gathered up in a 3 thread gather. I chose to do 3 thread because it's a fully lined dress so I didn't want as much bulk on the seam. It's exactly the same but you need to be careful identifying the needle thread
|This is a duchess satin so quite thick but it sill works|
|Always identify from the needle thread from the right / top side of the fabric.Its the one that forms the straight seam line|
|You man lose a couple of stitches at the start. Don't panic, that's ok|
|My fully gathered skirt|
|And the fully gathered lining|
|And the skirt attached.|
Tips for Advanced Players:
- If you are not bagging out your lining you can join and gather the top and bottom layers together in one move.
- There is a gathering foot that deserves it's own post, but suffice to say it exists and it is wonderful because it can join the gather and join the skirt to the flat bodice in one step. The downside is that I am yet to work out how to control the amount of gather when using the foot. This way has much more finesse.